3000GT / Dodge Stealth High Impedance (EV14/USCAR) Fuel Injector Wiring & Resistor Bypass

Opening the box on a set of FIC 1000s High IMP 3000GT Injectors, pigtails included in the standard option.

The stock fuel injectors used in the 3000GT and Dodge Stealth Turbo platforms are an EV1 style injector with a Jetronic style fuel injector plug.

Many modern high impedance injectors (but not all, check your product descriptions carefully) utilize an EV14 style injector body (narrower) with an adapter hat to fit the 3/S fuel rails and a more modern Uscar electrical connector.

When swapping in these injectors you will need to wire in new connectors or pigtails into your stock harness and eliminate the fuel injector resistor pack. We are going to detail the process for both requirements.

The benefits to this swap include a much more modern injector, which will allow you to run larger injectors than previously possible, while still maintaining excellent idle and cruise and replacing your old and crusty fuel injector wiring. Additionally the stock wire connector utilize a spring clip to hold them in, which is a pain to work with and easily lost. Modern pigtails have a push button for an easy release and no chance of losing anything.

3000GT Fuel Injector Wiring Facts

The rear harness is a subharness that is easily removed.
The front is integral to the main wiring harness.
The fuel injector wiring is very old and corroded by now and will not take to solder well.
The stock wire connectors use spring clips that must be removed with a pick and are easy to lose and easy to break the connector.
The 3000GT and Stealth Turbo platforms use a 7 wire resistor pack on the firewall near the windshield wiper motor to reduce the voltage to the stock low impedance injectors. This must be bypassed or your high impedance injectors will not function.

Rear Injector Harness

We will start with the rear harness as its easy to disconnect once the plenum is removed and take the whole sub harness to the bench.

First remove the plenum, you can see the 3 fuel injector connectors (red/brown) in the rear and the subharness connection is on the little 3 plug metal bracket on the left.

Once you removed the rear subharness start by stripping off the outer sheath from the wiring.

Lay out your new pigtail next to the old wire to determine where to cut. The old harness will be brittle and corroded, so use as much of the new one as you can.

Strip the wires once you are happy with the length. Automatic wire strippers are very helpful for this. Note how corroded and dark the stock wire is.

Its tempting to use solder and heat shrink tubing and that will usually work, but as corroded as the old wiring is, its actually better to use high quality insulated heat shrink crimps as shown. Solder can also crack and make joints brittle, so can break in hard motorsports use. The polarity doesn’t matter, so don’t worry about mixing up the wires.

Carefully wrap up the wire in high temp electrical tap such as Scotch Super 33+

Repeat the process for the 2nd connector.

The completed subharness, ready for installation in the rear bacnk.

Front Harness

The front harness is a little trickier because it is integral to the engine harness, so all your work must be done on the engine. It is also hidden inside a plastic tray. If you want to keep this you need to be careful taking the tray apart.